Joli: an ambitious menu on Seattle’s NW 65th

Restaurant Review: Two years in the making, Joli is housed in a former residence, with a contemporary American menu that is both a little Italian and a little French.

It took two years of labor to birth Joli, a promising newcomer on a stretch of Northwest 65th Street already well-stocked with an eclectic array of bars and restaurants. During that time, partners came and went, and the original concept (a wine bar) was retooled and refined. In the end, three women did the midwifing: majority owner Janet Eicher, who co-owns the Ballard shop Chocolate Vitale; investor Molly Bostic; and chef Amy Beaumier.

The strikingly austere restaurant and bar was carved out of a former residence. Gauzy lighting, velvet drapes on the large-paned windows and art — especially the serene triptych of snow-capped mountains painted by Seattle artist Carl Thomas Edwards — soften the urban-industrial shell of the storefront.

Beaumier can eye it all from her compact mezzanine kitchen. Born in Korea, she was adopted as a baby by a Seattle couple and grew up eating eclectically. She describes her father as a curious cook and eater. Her mother is half-Japanese. The grandmother who lived with them cooked Hawaiian food; her other grandmother was obsessed with French cuisine. Her 10 years of professional cooking experience spans restaurants as diverse as Dragonfish Asian Cafe, Belle & Whete and RN74.

Joli ★★  

Contemporary American

618 NW 65th St, Seattle

206-420-7259

joliseattle.com

Reservations: only for parties of 6 or more

Hours: dinner 4-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; happy hour 4-6 p.m.

Prices: $$$ (small plates, salad and vegetables $5-$14, large plates $17-$24)

Drinks: full bar; excellent cocktails; local beers; serviceable wine list, almost all offered by the glass

Service: affable

Parking: on street

Sound: moderate to loud

Credit cards: all major

Access: no obstacles; ramp to restrooms

At Joli, Beaumier’s contemporary American menu…

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